Categories
Canyon Mountain Road Travel

Fiery Surprises You’ve Never Heard Of

Fire Valley
While in red rock country I wanted to force myself in to new territory. State parks turned out to be surprisingly compelling. Guess the NPS doesn’t have a monopoly on grandeur after all!

Ever heard of Black Dragon Canyon? The Valley of Fire? Snow Canyon? Neither had I but they were along my route, AAA recommended them, and  so I visited. I should have guessed they’d astound as they’re neighbors to other red rock greats. Because it left such a strong impression on me I also revisited Cedar Breaks National Monument where again I was taken aback.

Valley of Fire

Above you see just a tease of what Valley of Fire has to offer. The formations and colors were much more varied than at most parks. From jagged ranges to soft flowing rock, from intense rust red to pale beige, this place was a tightly packed jumble that was fun to explore. 

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Categories
Canyon Hike Mountain River Road Travel

Brilliant Red Utah

Brilliant Red Utah
After close inspection of satellite images, the green route from Grand Junction looked more interesting than the red route. Good choice! I had stumbled on to the Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway.

My next stop was Moab, UT where I was going to deliver a box of DVDs to the parents of a friend. Old favorites such as Arches and Canyonlands were also on my agenda as were new recommendations such as Dead Horse Point. Little did I know that an interesting-looking shortcut would drop me into the Colorado Riverway Recreation Area, another wonder of red rock and water.

To a great extent I’m going to let pictures convey the grandeur of the area. However, before I set you free on my albums I want to make two points. First, the rock really and truly is a beautiful shade of red. Second, the combination of blue sky, red rock, and green plants combine to make magic. The Colorado River is what makes this possible in Utah’s arid plateau.

Brilliant Red Utah
Colorado National Recreational Area

I could spend a month in this region and not begin to do it justice.

Guess I’ll just have to keep returning!

Enough! Let’s see some pictures!

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Canyon Hike Mountain Road Travel

Colorado National Monument

Colorado National Monument
Deep, northward-facing gorges characterize the park. Its orientation and depth made for long shadows and difficult photographic challenges. Better perhaps to visit in summer at high noon.

The expanse of these canyons is impressive. They’re wide and deep and intensely colorful. However, the gorges are north-facing and they’re viewed from a road that runs along the rim. As a photographer I was disappointed with my timing. I arrived in the autumn in the late afternoon when shadows were long and much of the beauty was obscured in relative darkness. Though I’m glad I went, it was a disappointing photographic experience.

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Animal Hike Lake Mountain Road Travel

Six Lake Hike in the Rocky Mountains

Rocky Mountains
These guys were easy to find and wonderful to shoot (take pictures of). Often surrounded by 10 to 20 females I wondered if I wasn’t in Perth, Australia where the male/female ratio is similarly lopsided!

Timing is key. To this point all of Rocky Mountain National Park had been open and this included Trail Ridge Road which run the length of the park along part of the Rockies’ spine. As I pulled in to Estes Park after a long day it started to rain. By morning Trail Ridge Road was closed for the season as the roads were impassible due to snow. Timing is key.

What to do?

Rocky MountainsThankfully there were still many options; snow at the lower elevations had melted. I had long planned to hike to burn off energy after so many days behind the wheel. Back home I had researched this outing and selected a 9+ mile hike which would take me to six lakes. An overview of the area can be seen here; I visited Bear, Dream, Emerald, Haiyaha, Mills and Jewel lakes and in that order. It turned out to be a simply glorious day for hiking and in the Rockies no less! Timing is key.

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Historical Museum Road Travel

The Climb Begins at Fort Laramie

Larmie
Until I saw this sign I didn’t know what I was looking for. From a distance, the site is just a bunch of old buildings. Up close, it looked the same but oh what a story these old building could tell!

Heading west across the continent happened in three stages: 1) getting to St. Louis, 2) getting across the plains to the Rockies and 3) getting to your final destination on the other side of the Rocky Mountains. Most people followed the same path across the Great Plains but then could take any one of several paths across the Rockies. Fort Laramie is that important transition from where the plains end and to where the mountains begin.

You lay over at Fort Laramie for several important reasons. First, you’re resting after months spent walking across the flat middle of our country. Second, you’re purchasing supplies for the next stage of your journey as this is your last good opportunity before mounting the Rockies. Lastly, you’re waiting for decent weather before attempting to climb into the Rockies (remember the Donner Party). Fort Laramie figures very importantly into your plans! 

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Historical Mountain Museum Road Travel

Milestones of Westward Migration

Westward Migration
This overview of the National Trails map from the National Park Service shows how many of the trails overlapped. Only as they came up against the Rockies did they fork their own path.

It’s sometimes difficult to admit how little I know about U.S. history. I knew that people moved west, that gold was an important lure, and that the journey was a hardship. I knew there were trails people followed. I even knew some of the trails’ names: Oregon Trail, Santa Fe Trail, and California Trail. However, ask me details of any particular trail and I’d have told you nothing important.

After visiting the National Trails Headquarters I know enough to learn more! There in Omaha City I picked-up a few maps, I toured the museum facilities, I talked with Rangers. I learned the basics and committed myself to learn as opportunities presented themselves. It wasn’t long before I could do just that when I was headed south through Wyoming. It was then that I found three important milestones along the trails, two of which are described below. 

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Categories
Mountain Road Travel

A Devil of a Tower

Devils Tower
Devils Tower stands out as distinct and special. There’s nothing else like it anywhere around and you’re drawn towards it. It has the same allure today that it had for Indians centuries long ago.

Look closely. You can see the claw marks left by the bear as it tried to climb up the surging column of ground that rose up to protect the fleeing maiden. The indian gods had protected her from attack of the savage beast and she rested safely atop until it was safe to descend. That’s indian lore surrounding Devils Tower; its distinct character cries out for definition.

Devils TowerIf Mt. Rushmore was out-of-the-way then Devils Tower was in the middle of nowhere. However, the logic in my head went something like this … “Will I ever have a better opportunity to visit this site?” The answer wasn’t likely to be yes so I took the detour. I visited the first-ever National Monument.

As you first see it in the distance there’s no mistaking where your’e headed.

The natural forces that caused this upsurge were quite distinct. The result is a mysterious rock formation. Around its base is a path along the treeline, great for walking to see the tower from all sides. While that was certainly enough for me, as you can see in these pictures, it wasn’t enough for everyone.

Below are four pictures of people climbing the tower.

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Categories
Cave Desert Mountain Road Travel

South Dakota National Parks

Rushmore

This profile view of George Washington is one I hadn’t seen before and which under these lighting conditions looks quite good. Pat on the back complete. I chose it for its distinction.

Mt. Rushmore is the most notable destinations. Vaguely I knew of Badlands but I’d not even heard of either Wind Cave or Jewel Cave. Not surprisingly, since they’re all National Parks, I found them really worthwhile visits.

This set of parks is the primary reason I traveled so far north on my way to Los Angeles. Mt. Rushmore was my prime attraction. Its not that I reeeeeally wanted to see four Presidents’ heads carved in the side of a mountain. Superficially Mt. Rushmore sounds kind of goofy, kind of like an attention-getting stunt. Of course I was wrong. It’s a National Park for a reason!

RushmoreThis site pays homage to some of the U.S.’s greatest leaders. It’s sedate and respectful and the carvings are huge! I learned about the site’s construction and of the many difficult challenges they had to overcome during construction. Distinctive subtleties were interesting such as how the create a “glint in the eye” effect (by using pillar protrusions in each pupil). Plaques on display along the walking trail explain the history and the significant contributions of the four   Presidents. I didn’t think that Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt (Teddy) and Lincoln all had big heads … but now I know better! See pictures below. 

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Road Travel

Giants on the Rampage

Giant Rampage
In the mid-20th century when roads were new and businesses needed to attract traffic, roadside attractions were everywhere. It’s been this way on every legacy highway I’ve driven and here we see it again. Roadside giants!

The path from Rapid City, SD to Mt. Rushmore is well traveled and has been for decades. Giant RampageAlong the way the road passes through many communities which depend on the tourist trade. Not normally a sucker for kitsch, when I see a roadside giant I can’t help but pull over. This drive afforded two chances to get up close to some giants, one with the Muffler Man heritage which can be identified by a few distinguishing features.

These fiberglass giants were created to attract attention and build business. Muffler Men appeared outside gas stations. The Uniroyal Gals appeared outside tire shops. Other large chains that used fiberglass figures include Big Boy and A&W Root Beer. Giants also appeared as lumberjacks, indians, construction workers, cowboys, and more. Custom work made to order would be done by the California fiberglass company which created most of these figures but often to save costs they’re reuse molds. Hence many have similar distinguishing features such as the spread legs, the hand positions, and the square jaw. You can learn the history of these figures and read an interview with their producer here.

UPDATE: 

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Categories
Historical Museum Road Travel

Lincoln’s Boyhood Home

Lincoln Boyhood Home
At 15 feet square this isn’t a McMansion! It’s amazing that upwards of a dozen people lived in this small space. This home was the last of four built on this site in Indiana. From here he moved to IL.

What is it with me and President Lincoln? I’ll chalk it up to coincidence that I got interested when I was in the right place (his birthplace) at the right time (his 200th birthday) and attended his birthday party and new-penny launch. Revisit my awakening here.

First there was his birthplace and childhood home in Kentucky. Then there was his boyhood home in Indiana. Then he called Illinois Lincoln Boyhood Homehome from age 21 till eventually he moved to D.C. as President. I recount all this because 1) it details my personal odyssey and 2) it shows that anyone who can lay claim to one of our greatest Presidents does.

This visit was to his boyhood home where he grew up, worked on the farm, and learned the knowledge and values which would eventually define the man he became. It was from age eight to 21 that he lived here after leaving the farm they had started in Kentucky due to a property ownership dispute.

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