The expanse of these canyons is impressive. They’re wide and deep and intensely colorful. However, the gorges are north-facing and they’re viewed from a road that runs along the rim. As a photographer I was disappointed with my timing. I arrived in the autumn in the late afternoon when shadows were long and much of the beauty was obscured in relative darkness. Though I’m glad I went, it was a disappointing photographic experience.
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Timing is key. To this point all of Rocky Mountain National Park had been open and this included Trail Ridge Road which run the length of the park along part of the Rockies’ spine. As I pulled in to Estes Park after a long day it started to rain. By morning Trail Ridge Road was closed for the season as the roads were impassible due to snow. Timing is key.
What to do?
Thankfully there were still many options; snow at the lower elevations had melted. I had long planned to hike to burn off energy after so many days behind the wheel. Back home I had researched this outing and selected a 9+ mile hike which would take me to six lakes. An overview of the area can be seen here; I visited Bear, Dream, Emerald, Haiyaha, Mills and Jewel lakes and in that order. It turned out to be a simply glorious day for hiking and in the Rockies no less! Timing is key.
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Heading west across the continent happened in three stages: 1) getting to St. Louis, 2) getting across the plains to the Rockies and 3) getting to your final destination on the other side of the Rocky Mountains. Most people followed the same path across the Great Plains but then could take any one of several paths across the Rockies. Fort Laramie is that important transition from where the plains end and to where the mountains begin.
You lay over at Fort Laramie for several important reasons. First, you’re resting after months spent walking across the flat middle of our country. Second, you’re purchasing supplies for the next stage of your journey as this is your last good opportunity before mounting the Rockies. Lastly, you’re waiting for decent weather before attempting to climb into the Rockies (remember the Donner Party). Fort Laramie figures very importantly into your plans!
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It’s sometimes difficult to admit how little I know about U.S. history. I knew that people moved west, that gold was an important lure, and that the journey was a hardship. I knew there were trails people followed. I even knew some of the trails’ names: Oregon Trail, Santa Fe Trail, and California Trail. However, ask me details of any particular trail and I’d have told you nothing important.
After visiting the National Trails Headquarters I know enough to learn more! There in Omaha City I picked-up a few maps, I toured the museum facilities, I talked with Rangers. I learned the basics and committed myself to learn as opportunities presented themselves. It wasn’t long before I could do just that when I was headed south through Wyoming. It was then that I found three important milestones along the trails, two of which are described below.
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Look closely. You can see the claw marks left by the bear as it tried to climb up the surging column of ground that rose up to protect the fleeing maiden. The indian gods had protected her from attack of the savage beast and she rested safely atop until it was safe to descend. That’s indian lore surrounding Devils Tower; its distinct character cries out for definition.
If Mt. Rushmore was out-of-the-way then Devils Tower was in the middle of nowhere. However, the logic in my head went something like this … “Will I ever have a better opportunity to visit this site?” The answer wasn’t likely to be yes so I took the detour. I visited the first-ever National Monument.
As you first see it in the distance there’s no mistaking where your’e headed.
The natural forces that caused this upsurge were quite distinct. The result is a mysterious rock formation. Around its base is a path along the treeline, great for walking to see the tower from all sides. While that was certainly enough for me, as you can see in these pictures, it wasn’t enough for everyone.
Below are four pictures of people climbing the tower.
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This profile view of George Washington is one I hadn’t seen before and which under these lighting conditions looks quite good. Pat on the back complete. I chose it for its distinction.
Mt. Rushmore is the most notable destinations. Vaguely I knew of Badlands but I’d not even heard of either Wind Cave or Jewel Cave. Not surprisingly, since they’re all National Parks, I found them really worthwhile visits.
This set of parks is the primary reason I traveled so far north on my way to Los Angeles. Mt. Rushmore was my prime attraction. Its not that I reeeeeally wanted to see four Presidents’ heads carved in the side of a mountain. Superficially Mt. Rushmore sounds kind of goofy, kind of like an attention-getting stunt. Of course I was wrong. It’s a National Park for a reason!
This site pays homage to some of the U.S.’s greatest leaders. It’s sedate and respectful and the carvings are huge! I learned about the site’s construction and of the many difficult challenges they had to overcome during construction. Distinctive subtleties were interesting such as how the create a “glint in the eye” effect (by using pillar protrusions in each pupil). Plaques on display along the walking trail explain the history and the significant contributions of the four Presidents. I didn’t think that Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt (Teddy) and Lincoln all had big heads … but now I know better! See pictures below.
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The path from Rapid City, SD to Mt. Rushmore is well traveled and has been for decades. 
Along the way the road passes through many communities which depend on the tourist trade. Not normally a sucker for kitsch, when I see a roadside giant I can’t help but pull over. This drive afforded two chances to get up close to some giants, one with the Muffler Man heritage which can be identified by a few distinguishing features.
These fiberglass giants were created to attract attention and build business. Muffler Men appeared outside gas stations. The Uniroyal Gals appeared outside tire shops. Other large chains that used fiberglass figures include Big Boy and A&W Root Beer. Giants also appeared as lumberjacks, indians, construction workers, cowboys, and more. Custom work made to order would be done by the California fiberglass company which created most of these figures but often to save costs they’re reuse molds. Hence many have similar distinguishing features such as the spread legs, the hand positions, and the square jaw. You can learn the history of these figures and read an interview with their producer here.
UPDATE:
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What is it with me and President Lincoln? I’ll chalk it up to coincidence that I got interested when I was in the right place (his birthplace) at the right time (his 200th birthday) and attended his birthday party and new-penny launch. Revisit my awakening here.
First there was his birthplace and childhood home in Kentucky. Then there was his boyhood home in Indiana. Then he called Illinois 
home from age 21 till eventually he moved to D.C. as President. I recount all this because 1) it details my personal odyssey and 2) it shows that anyone who can lay claim to one of our greatest Presidents does.
This visit was to his boyhood home where he grew up, worked on the farm, and learned the knowledge and values which would eventually define the man he became. It was from age eight to 21 that he lived here after leaving the farm they had started in Kentucky due to a property ownership dispute.
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This town is photogenic. A few months ago I was passing through and took note of it’s appealing character: the winding Ohio River, it’s many bridges, hills all around, and a beautiful skyline. I knew it had the makings of a photo shoot and I had it in mind for a revisit … this was it.
The Cincinnati Museum Center has a scale model of the city which is where I started to piece together my picture-taking ambitions. Foremost I wanted to capture some contemporary views which I could superimposed over identical historical images. This I didn’t manage to pull off; too ambitious. However, with all the buildings, bridges, river, hills and lights my second ambition was to get some skyline shots. This I did and I had a blast trying to sight my shots.
While I didn’t get to a few of the better vista points I did get enough good pictures to come away happy. Finding the night baseball game in process was a real coup!
The next morning was cloudy so after visiting the sites I’d missed at night, I hit the road.
Above you can see what I missed; shooting that would be lovely at night!
I feel a return engagement is inevitable.
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I don’t drive across this continent without a plan. It may be hastily contrived and it may be incomplete. It may be only a sketch when I walk out the door but it’s going to mature quickly and it’s going to result in a great time if history is any indication. This is the story of such a trip.
It starts with a primary destination. In this case it is Catalina Island off the coast of Los Angeles where I would attend the four dayJazzTrax Festival. In honor of Ken Burns’ series, my goal going to and from the west coast is to visit National Parks and Monuments. Since it is still early fall and the weather hadn’t turned cold, I’ll take a more northerly path than usual. At the heart of it, this is my plan. Pretty loose, eh?
Well, as you’ll see, the details will flesh-out as I go “Westward, ho!”
(Actually I named this trip after a camp I attended in 3rd and 4th grades.)
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