Via the southwest corner of Colorado I was driving from New Mexico to Utah. “Mesa Verde National Park” the sign read as I drove by. Everyone I’d spoken to about Puebloan society had mentioned this place as one of two pinnacles of their civilization, Chaco being the other. “Hundreds of cliff dwellings” I had been told. “Oh to heck with my schedule,” I thought and started the long drive into the park.
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Where Did the Puebloans Go?
The first ruins I visited were inhabited from 900 to 1300 after which the populations “disappeared”. Today I visited ruins which were deserted in the period from 1500 to 1700 but whose populations just relocated. They had depleted the resources needed to live and needed to move to a new situation. Their decedents in these cases still live in the area hundreds of years later.
byChichen Itza, not Chicken Pizza
Recognize this structure? It’s one of the Seven Wonders of the World; it’s the Pyramid of Kukulcan at Chichen Itza in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. The math and astronomy and symbolism which make it a “wonder” are extensive. An overly long-winded tour guide laid it all out in detail. Information overload! All I can recite back is my impression: “Wow!”
Suffice to say, Chichen Itza once had over 400 structures and was the principal city of the Mayan civilization. It was the ceremonial heart of these people and was populated with religious leaders. Famous for so many things from its observatory, its pyramid, its ballcourt, and its war temple to its sacred well, its blood sacrifice, and its scale.
Only seven percent has been restored but it’s enough to blow you away. They’re discovering new things all the time and we saw excavation of an entirely new level of the pyramid. Our only disappointment was how limited access was to the structures. My expectations of full access were set in 1984 when last I visited. Obviously much had changed.
byAlong the Historic National Pike
The home stretch and I started the day in a major town along the nation’s first federally funded road. Washington was one of the major roads along the Pennsylvania stretch of the National Pike. Starting in Baltimore, it initially was only 175 miles long to Cumberland, MD but eventually grew to 620 miles. In the end it connected the Potomac and Ohio rivers with a land road.
I’d been on this road a few times in the past. It’s character always caused me to want to learn more. This was my chance. I saw original tollbooths and mileage markers along the way. I visited Fort Necessity where preconceptions of George Washington were shattered: here he was a young officer, here he was a British soldier, here he fought and lost! Fascinating. We’re talking very early U.S. history in these parts.
byThe Heart of U.S. Manufacturing
All my life I’d heard about the manufacturing might of the automotive industry in Michigan. In recent years I’ve also read about plant closures. I recognize but know nothing about towns such as Pontiac, Detroit, Flint, Troy, Livonia, Flat Rock, Ypsilanti, etc. I was in the heart of Michigan and wanted to see this for myself so I mapped out a route and drove it.
First I wanted to see the scale of car plants. I drove around with my iPhone showing satellite views of my route. When I saw a large facility I’d drive toward it, position myself in the image (the blue dot), and snap a picture. Here are some examples and WOW they’re impressive.
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The Climb Begins at Fort Laramie
Heading west across the continent happened in three stages: 1) getting to St. Louis, 2) getting across the plains to the Rockies and 3) getting to your final destination on the other side of the Rocky Mountains. Most people followed the same path across the Great Plains but then could take any one of several paths across the Rockies. Fort Laramie is that important transition from where the plains end and to where the mountains begin.
You lay over at Fort Laramie for several important reasons. First, you’re resting after months spent walking across the flat middle of our country. Second, you’re purchasing supplies for the next stage of your journey as this is your last good opportunity before mounting the Rockies. Lastly, you’re waiting for decent weather before attempting to climb into the Rockies (remember the Donner Party). Fort Laramie figures very importantly into your plans!
byIt’s sometimes difficult to admit how little I know about U.S. history. I knew that people moved west, that gold was an important lure, and that the journey was a hardship. I knew there were trails people followed. I even knew some of the trails’ names: Oregon Trail, Santa Fe Trail, and California Trail. However, ask me details of any particular trail and I’d have told you nothing important.
After visiting the National Trails Headquarters I know enough to learn more! There in Omaha City I picked-up a few maps, I toured the museum facilities, I talked with Rangers. I learned the basics and committed myself to learn as opportunities presented themselves. It wasn’t long before I could do just that when I was headed south through Wyoming. It was then that I found three important milestones along the trails, two of which are described below.
byLincoln’s Boyhood Home
What is it with me and President Lincoln? I’ll chalk it up to coincidence that I got interested when I was in the right place (his birthplace) at the right time (his 200th birthday) and attended his birthday party and new-penny launch. Revisit my awakening here.
First there was his birthplace and childhood home in Kentucky. Then there was his boyhood home in Indiana. Then he called Illinois home from age 21 till eventually he moved to D.C. as President. I recount all this because 1) it details my personal odyssey and 2) it shows that anyone who can lay claim to one of our greatest Presidents does.
This visit was to his boyhood home where he grew up, worked on the farm, and learned the knowledge and values which would eventually define the man he became. It was from age eight to 21 that he lived here after leaving the farm they had started in Kentucky due to a property ownership dispute.
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater
I’ve spent the past few years happening upon homes built by Frank Lloyd Wright, visiting exhibitions of his life’s work, and researching him online. The man fascinates me. Correction. His architecture affects me and that fascinates me. I’m moved emotionally whenever I see his work.
For me Fallingwater is the pinnacle of his work. The genius of how he melded the home in its natural setting. The stunning way the falls integrate with the structure. How he lets natural light reign supreme. You can feel it even in my petty attempts to capture his genius in these pictures. Amazing work.
In the southwest corner of Pennsylvania I found not only Fallingwater but also other homes built by Frank Lloyd Write. First is Kentuck Knob which is open for viewing and the other is a collection of homes called Polymath Park relocated to the area and converted into a Bed and Breakfast. For a Wright enthusiast this is one of nice detour. I’m glad I finally made it.
byTaste of Chicago
Last year while returning home via the Lincoln Highway, our nation’s first transcontinental road which ran from Manhattan to San Francisco, I stayed in Chicago just as “Taste of Chicago” was winding down. “Wow!” I thought “I’ve got to get back to see this next year!” And so I did.
“Taste of Chicago” is a nine-day food and performing arts festival which takes place in Grant Park along Chicago’s waterfront. This is a big deal! All the music concerts are free and included such acts as Hootie and the Blowfish, Barenaked Ladies, Buddy Guy, and much more. To get a sense of scale, take a look a the map below. For food alone there were 56 restaurants!
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